Makeup Awash in Color

Put the colors of nature -- gorgeous greens, beautiful blues, pretty pinks, and cool corals -- to work for you this summer.

Produced by Carla Engler; Text by Patricia Reynoso

Greens

Mesmerizing Eyes

Photograph by Alberto Tolot Your eyes are your face's star attraction, and you can make them more exciting with the season's array of blue, purple, and green eye shadow. Not only do these shades brighten your eyes in a new way, but they're remarkably easy to wear. No matter what your skin tone, you can take part in this summertime color fling. But first, a few guidelines:

Greener Days

The secret to using shades of green lies in applying them lightly, without complicated contouring and shading, and by choosing colors that are transparent and slightly shimmery, rather than opaque and matte. Also, look for shades that will complement your skin tone. "The soft green used on the model (at right) works because of her skin's warm undertones," says makeup artist Tommy Joiner. On the opposite end of the spectrum, women with lighter, cooler skin tones (such as blondes with blue eyes) would look best in a more vivid shade of green. If you're not sure whether you have "warm" or "cool" skin, go to your favorite makeup counter for advice.

Blues

The Best of the Blue

Blue shadows are also making a big comeback, but in a new, sophisticated way. "Apply a 'whisper' of color, not a 'shout,'" says Maria Verel, Diane Sawyer's makeup artist. Many eye shadows look bright and intense in the pot, but don't be put off -- they actually brush on very lightly. If you're still worried about too much intensity, start slowly, say the experts. "Try dipping your brush into a bit of translucent powder first, then into a palette itself," advises makeup artist Troy Surratt. Or, says Verel, soften the look by dusting gold or silver highlighting powder over the eye. A fan-shaped brush is the perfect tool, says Mally Roncal, Sephora's national makeup artist, who also works with singer/actress Beyonce. "It allows you to sweep on just a stroke of color exactly where you want it," she says. Eyeliner Smarts Save really vivid hues, such as cobalt blue and electric green, for lining the eye, very close to upper lashes, in very thin strokes. That way, you'll get a dose of eye-brightening color without making a big commitment. "It's also a lot more wearable that way," says celebrity makeup artist Nick Barose. Love Your Lashes Once your pretty-as-a-picture shadow is securely in place, don't go anywhere without a hearty helping of mascara. Reach for no-fail black or dark brown, or try colored mascara, which subtly enhances your eye color. Like this season's shadows, colored mascaras are never as bright as they appear in the tube. "In fact, purple is the easiest to wear," says Barose, "probably because it's so close to brown." Cheeks Three Cheers for Cheeks This season's preferred palette of peach, coral, pink, and bronze shades are just the ticket to achieving a healthy glow. And while the endless array of blush shades and textures (powder, cream, or liquid?) can be dizzying, there's never been a better time to bring your best flush forward. Start by priming your face. Dip a big fluffy brush into a pot of bronzing powder and dust it all over your face, concentrating on your forehead, chin, and the tip of your nose. This will warm your complexion and makes it an ideal backdrop for bright color. "Smile and apply the blush with a soft brush to the roundest part of your face, blending up to the cheekbone and toward the temple," says Surratt. As with eye makeup, there's a place for cheek shimmer products, too. Blend on shimmer, in either a liquid or cream form, and use it after applying foundation and before powdering; follow it with either powder or cream blush. A bronze or copper shimmer will enhance the look of the bronzing powder, while a paler shade of white or pink will give you a fresher, bright look. Both are beautiful and give your complexion a gorgeous glow. Lips Lip Appeal Where would a makeup look be with lipstick? Nowhere! And this summer, the selection of shades is delightfully delicious. With rich coral, juicy strawberry, and cotton candy pink, there's more than one right tint for everyone. Best of all, many of the new formulas promise to deliver younger, fuller lips, too. Pretty and Pink Pink lipstick is omnipresent right now; it's in every shade from hot to nude. When choosing a pink lip shade, Barose recommends that you stick to a shade that's a bit darker than your natural lip pigment. Otherwise, you risk looking too pale and washed out. "Think pink but also fruity," he says. Cool Corals An easy way to add pizzazz to your makeup look -- without having to do much else to your face -- is to slick on a coat of coral lip color. Look for shades that verge on pink (not orange) and wear this vivid color against an otherwise neutral face -- since it shouldn't share the stage with other bright hues. "Look for colors that are bold even in the tube," says Surratt. "They'll diffuse to a perfectly sheer shade."

Source: http://www.lhj.com/

40+ Beauty Problems and How to Solve Them

3 ways to look fabulous in your 40s and beyond.

By Sonia Kashuk

Dry Skin

	Sonia Kashuk

Women's beauty and skincare needs change over time. But aging happens gradually and many women won't know when to make a switch. They'll fall in love with a particular product or routine that works for them, and still be using it 15 years later. In the meantime, their looks and beauty needs have evolved.

We all dream of a miracle in a bottle, but our obsession with being flawless is absurd. Wrinkles happen -- adding depth and character to the face. Aging is a natural and beautiful process that happens to all of us, and acceptance, not denial, looks better on everyone. But you can still embrace and enhance what you have, while downplaying some of the natural effects of aging.

Below, I have identified some of the most common beauty problems women over 40 face, and offer advice on how to make the most of your looks -- at any age.

Dry Facial Skin

As you age, skin gradually grows thinner, produces less natural oil, and renews itself less often. These factors all contribute to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as the body's lack of oil makes creases more noticeable. The key lies with good skincare and hydration. First, drink lots of water -- all day, every day. Then, look for cleansers and other skincare products (toners, exfoliators, etc.) with moisturizing ingredients that will not dry the skin. I always moisturize the skin with a mini facial massage before applying any makeup.

Overdoing It

Once you hit your 40s, a makeup routine should become less about color and more about the skin, and whether you need foundation and concealer. You've probably noticed that a little goes a long way! Experimenting is fine, as long as you remember to BLEND.

For women over 40, I recommend the old adage "less is more." Too much can end up calling attention to your makeup -- not your features -- and that defeats the purpose. With good skincare and maintenance, a beautiful, youthful look can be obtained with less product. The trick is in the application.

Start with concealer, keeping it sheer to hide dark spots, such as undereye circles, age spots, broken capillaries, etc. Then, use foundation to hide uneven skin, especially on the eyelids, neck area, and around the nostrils. An oil-based liquid foundation will move easily over dry and mature skin. Once your skin is evened out, decide how much makeup you really need. Many older women look beautiful with just a pinch of blush on the apples of the cheeks, and defined lips and brows.

For blush, look for soft shades such as pinks, mauves, and peach, and be sure to blend well. Keep eye shadows fairly light and neutral with shades of brown or taupe. Grays, soft purples, and blues also work well with gray hair. Strong colors such as charcoal or black can be used subtly to get more intensity from the eyes. It used to be a no-no to wear shimmer shadows (which may accentuate lines) but most shimmer formulas are refined now, so anyone can wear them. Above all, apply all color with a good makeup brush. Brushes are essential for precise application. Each time you dab the brush into a compact of color, tap it a few times to release any excess product before it goes on the face. This will help control the application no matter what color you use.

Many older women prefer cream blushes to powders as they don't settle in fine lines. I say experiment, and see what works best for you.

You can use pencils to line the eyes. Use a brush to blend pencil outward to keep the line from looking too severe. Opt for brown or gray liners, which are less intense than black. Finally, give your eyes the most natural lift with an eyelash curler, a favorite tool of mine. This will make a huge difference in opening up the eyes, whether or not you wear mascara. Curl the top lashes, using little pumping motions, moving from the lash line to the end of the lashes in an upward sweep. Black mascara works on everyone, and black/brown gives a slightly softer look.

Full, well-shaped eyebrows complete the look. Women often make the mistake of going too dark with their brow pencil. If you have brown eyebrows, you don't need a dark brown pencil -- try a gray/brown instead. Blondes can use taupe. On the gray side? Try a taupe-gray tone.

Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/SoniaKashuk_Over40_01102005.xml&catref=cat1530002&page=2

Makeup Dos, Don'ts, and Maybes

Rules to follow -- and some to break.

By Sonia Kashuk

When we were little girls playing dress up, it was for the sheer joy of it. There was no pressure and no one told us what was right and wrong to wear. Putting on makeup can still feel that way. Every woman arrives at her own look through trial and error. It's a never-ending -- and exciting -- experiment. So the fewer rules there are, the better!

But aren't there a few makeup rules? Are there any must-have-or-else beauty necessities? There are no rules about what you choose to wear, but there are rules on how to apply it. Here are a few:

Dos

Makeup should only go on a freshly washed and moisturized face. Whatever you're doing, you have to see what you're doing. Have bright, even light in front of your bathroom mirror. Blend. Blend. And did I mention...blend! You don't want to see where color begins or ends. Whether it's foundation, blush, or eye color: no hard, drawn lines. An exception to this would be eyeliner, but I prefer even that to be smudged.

Don'ts

Pink complexions should not wear pinkish foundations. No way. No how. Not ever! My pet peeve (take it for what it's worth) is wearing dark lipliner and a lighter lip color. This is what I call "the inflatable doll" look. Scary.

Maybes

When it comes to color, take direction from you hair, rather than from your eyes or your clothes. Or not! It used to be a no-no to wear shimmer eye shadows on mature faces (shimmer accentuated the lines). But most shimmer formulas are so refined now, just about anyone can wear them. Are some looks strictly day or night? Nah. (Besides, when you're coming home from a party at 5 a.m. is it day or is it night? These are the mysteries of life.) When it comes to eye shadow, stay in the same color family if you're wearing more than one tone. Then again, a color mixed with a neutral looks great -- pink with brown, or blue with brown. Want to wear only lip color? Great. Only concealer? Fantastic. Eye shadow without mascara? Definitely. Lipstick on your cheeks? Genius. You want chartreuse shadow? And you want it for everyday? Go ahead -- I have a pair of chartreuse lampshades that absolutely make the room! Sonia Kashuk's book, Real Beauty, is available at bookstores nationwide.

Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/SoniaKashuk_MakeupDosDonts_06032004.xml&catref=cat1530002

The Foundation of Beautiful Skin

Want perfect skin? Fake it with foundation.

Whatever your problem -- an oily T-zone, fine lines or dull, washed-out skin, there's a foundation to perfect any complexion.

What might be best for you:

Skin-care need Fresh, dewy look for normal to dry skin Smoothing fine lines Oil control Long-lasting coverage for any skin type Freshening a dull, lackluster complexion Look for Hydrating formulas that add moisture without leaving skin shiny Anti-aging formulas with ingredients that scatter light (a trick that prevents shadows from emphasizing lines on the face) and light-reflecting particles to brighten skin Streak-proof powder foundations with a light matte finish that won't clog pores Oil-free liquids formulated to be sheer yet long-wearing Gel-based creams or liquids with antioxidants, such as vitamin C and E, and botanicals to even out skin tone Hydrating Liquid Foundation ($32) with vitamins and minerals to keep skin moist all day; Chanel Waterlights Sheer Makeup Stick ($37.50), a cooling cream made of 30 percent water Maybelline Smooth Result Age Minimizing Makeup SPF 18 ($9); L'Oreal Air Wear Breathable Longwearing Powder Foundation ($11.95) with pigments that glide over skin; Revlon Wet/Dry Foundation ($13.95) Bobbi Brown Oil-Free Even Finish Foundation SPF 15 ($35) with silica beads to minimize fine lines; Avon Beyond Color Illuminating Radiance Vitamin C Foundation SPF 12 ($11) with skin-brightening licorice extract; Almay Wake-Up Call! Energizing Makeup ($10.95) 15

Basics of base: how to apply Whether you opt for a stick, liquid or powder formula, you'll get flawless results every time with these tips from Hollywood makeup pro Robin Siegel, who keeps the cast of Friends looking so fabulous. Stick foundation Glide on the foundation straight from the stick; blend with fingertips or a dry, clean makeup sponge. Liquid foundation Shake bottle well. Dot on, then blend with your fingertips; oils from your fingertips will help spread the foundation evenly. Powder foundation Apply with a dry sponge; wet sponges can streak.

Blending 101
For complexion perfection, it's all in the blending. Here, Siegel's secrets:

• Apply foundation in center of forehead; blend across, then down.
• For cheeks, blend in toward nose, then out toward hairline.
• Dot foundation on tip of nose; blend with upward, then outward strokes.
• On your chin, blend foundation across, then up.
  

How do I find my perfect match?
In your search for the most flattering shade, don't test foundation on the back of your hand. The skin is thinner there and tends to be lighter than your face. What you should do: Smooth a little on your jaw, and then blend it into your neck. With the right shade, you won't be able to tell where the foundation begins or ends.

Do you need powder over your foundation?
Not at all if you use a powder foundation.
If you use a stick, pat on a little pressed powder in the T-zone.
If you use a liquid or cream foundation, press your powder puff around the nose, then slightly outward toward cheeks. --Carol Straley

Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/16205.xml&catref=cat1530002&psrc=storyrl

Organic Beauty 101

Organic skincare and cosmetics lines are cropping up on the beauty market, but are they really better for you?

By Jocelyn Voo

What Does Organic Mean?

When it comes to the beauty industry, the term "organic" has been lobbed about so casually that most consumers equate organic with natural products. However, this is a common misconception.

The main difference between natural and organic is that there are no official guidelines as to what constitutes natural beauty products, whereas organic products must abide by stringent regulations. According to the USDA's National Organic Program, the term "organic" may only be used on labels for raw or processed agricultural products or ingredients that have been produced according to the regulations put forth by the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). Among other things, these standards require 100 percent organic feed for organic livestock, and prohibit the use of irradiation, sewage sludge, pesticides, chemical fertilizers, and genetic engineering in organic production.

Breakdown of Organic Labels

So how can you tell if a product is really organic, or only partially organic? Here's what the terms on those labels really mean.

• 100% Organic: Must contain 100 percent organically produced ingredients (excluding water and salt). This is the only label that guarantees a completely organic product. These products can carry the USDA Organic Seal.

• Organic or Certified Organic: At least 95 percent of content is organic by weight (excluding water and salt). These products can carry the USDA Organic Seal.

• Made with Organic Ingredients: At least 70 percent of content is organic. Front panel can say "Made with Organic" and list up to three specific ingredients. These products cannot carry the USDA Organic Seal.

• Less Than 70% Organic: Can list only organic ingredients on ingredient panel, but not on front panel. These products cannot carry the USDA Organic Seal.

Is Organic Really Better?

With so much hype behind the organic beauty movement, one assumes there must be huge benefits to using organic products, right? The jury's still out, but some research suggest that there are certain benefits to going green.

"There is strong evidence to support that true organic personal-care products can be healthier for people and the environment," says Diana Kaye, cofounder of the organic care line Terressentials. Indeed, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has reported that methyl and butyl parabens and certain preservatives -- all ingredients commonly used in personal-care products -- have been linked to metabolic, developmental, hormonal, and neurological disorders, as well as various cancers. "True organic personal-care products would not contain preservatives," says Kaye.

But do organic products lend any aesthetic advantages? "Is there a noticeable difference? I think no," says Barbara Close, author of Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics and founder of Naturopathica, a holistic health spa in the East Hamptons. However, "Some nonorganic products use petrochemical ingredients such as mineral oil which can irritate sensitive skin. Also, skin recognizes and identifies with natural products better." So while organic products may be noticeably beneficial for people with sensitive skin, their main allure lies in the environmental and social implications of choosing organic. "Using petrochemicals depletes earth's natural resources," says Close. "Purchasing from independent farms sustains a livelihood of people who really care about artisanal ingredients and the wellness of their purchasers."

Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/1142441120092.xml&catref=cat1530002&page=2

How to Choose Foundation

Find the just-right shade for you.

By Lisa Kovalovich

Want to even out your complexion, minimize pores, and add a pretty glow to your skin? All you need is the right foundation! To find the one that will work best with your skin, use these steps:

Step 1: Determine your skin type. It will dictate the foundation formula you should buy. Got oily skin? An oil-free, liquid foundation with a matte finish will keep shine away, but won't clog pores. If you have dry skin, a cream foundation with a dewy finish will add hydration plus a soft sheen. And for combination skin, a liquid or cream-to-powder foundation with a natural finish looks best.

Step 2: Hit the department store. The No. 1 rule in buying foundation is that you must test it on your skin. While drugstore foundations may be of high quality, their packaging doesn't allow a try-on. That's why it's wise to splurge on foundation at the department store. There, you can try on an array of shades and formulas, and get help from a counter makeup artist.

Step 3: Stick to yellow-based shades. Foundations with a yellow base or undertone work the best, as they give a natural look (most of us have yellow in our skin, no matter how dark or rosy we are). Avoid foundations with obvious pink or peach casts, which look unnatural on virtually everyone.

Step 4: Choose three or four shade options. The counter makeup artist can help you here. Because foundations today come in such a broad range of shades, several may look like they'll work for you. Try on a few before you make a decision.

Step 5: Test it right. Forget about testing foundation on your hand or wrist -- your face is most likely a different color. Instead, use a cotton swab to swipe your three or four shade possibilities at your jawline.

Step 6: Examine in natural light. The best way to figure out which of your test shades is right is by looking at them in natural light. The one that seems to blend into your skin with no noticeable outline is your perfect match. (Don't see a perfect match in the four you tested? Head back to the counter to try some more options.)

Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/HowtoChooseFoundation_05102004.xml&catref=cat1530002&psrc=storyrl

The Best Face Cleansers on the Market

From Julyne Derrick

From Cheap to Steep & For Every Skin Type

Some of the best cleansers on the market aren't fancy & expensive. But if you want the very best, you can pay for it. Here I run down the best face cleansers on the market today from cheap to steep & for 5 different skin types: dry, oily, combination, sensitive & blemished. This list includes the yearly picks by the staff of 'InStyle' magazine plus the tried & true picks selected by other beauty experts. This is no random list -- every cleanser here has passed with high marks the exacting standards of the best makeup artists, beauty editors & dermatologists in the business.

Key: $=up to $10; $$=up to $20; $$$=up to $30; $$$$=up to $40.

Best cleansers for dry skin, from cheap to steep

• Cetaphil There's no bells & whistles with this baby-mild product that even dermatologists swear by. So why is this $10 cleanser such a must-have? It's clean, simple & isn't loaded wtih chemicals or perfumes that can irritate the skin. It's just the best drugstore cleanser out there. Period.$
  
• Clarins Gentle Foaming Cleanser This cleanser contains shea butter, which leaves skin moisturized as well as cleansed. $$
  
• Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream This cleanser smells like almonds & doesn't come with a lot of preservatives, so keep an eye on the expiration date. $$
  
• Lancome Galatee Milk Cleanser This milky cleanser is very moisturizing. $$$
  
  

Best cleansers for oily skin, from cheap to steep

• Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash Like Cetaphil for dry skin, Purpose has few bells & whistles -- a good thing for a cleanser. This soap-free, oil-free liquid lathers away dirt, makeup & oil but doesn't leave skin so dry it reacts by overproducing oil. Pretty good job for only $6. $
  
• Clinique Wash-Away Gel Cleanser This classic cleanser can be a bit drying, so test the product before you buy. $$
  
• Shiseido Pureness Cleansing Gel Gentle & soft, you'll love the way this cleanser...smells (& cleans your skin). $$
  
• Lancome Clarifiance Oil-Free Gel Cleanser This cleanser will leave your oily skin feeling luxurious, but not oily. $$$
  
  

Best cleansers for normal/combination skin, from cheap to steep

• Dove Essential Nutrients self-foaming cleanser This cleanser is a great standby from cold winters to humid summers, according to NYC dermatologist Francesca J. Fusco in the 2005 spring issue of InStyle Magazine. This $6 basic cleanser washes away oil & dead skin cells without stripping skin of its needed nutrients. $
  
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser This is the best drugstore cleanser. Period. $
  
• Bloom Facial Cleaners [/link] This aromatherapy cleanser has lavendar & grapefruit essential oils. $$
  
• FACE Stockholm Foaming Face Cleanser A great product that's not drying. $$$
  
• Laura Mercier One-Step Cleanser The perfect pricey cleanser. $$$$

Best cleansers for sensitive skin, from cheap to steep

• Avon Clear Skin Foaming Cleanser Inexpensive, yet gentle. $
  
• Oil of Olay Sensitive Skin Wash Works almost as well as Cetaphil. $
  
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser Best drugstore cleanser. Period. $
  
• Aveda All-Sensitive Cleanser Perfect cleanser, & not too pricey. $$
• Nina Ricci Rosee Gel Purificante When it has a name like this, you know it has to be pricey. Actually, this cleanser has been described as 'sensual.' And supposedly it smells like roses.$$$

Source: http://beauty.about.com